Monday, December 21, 2009

Hanoi and Sapa

Yesterday, after touring around by foot in Hanoi - visiting the "Hanoi Hilton" - the Maison Centrale - an old prison, the city art gallery, some travels in and around the city walking around the streets and markets, taking in some fab sites, smells and street life, downing several beers in Maos Red Lounge, I saw the best sight so far - a motorbike travelling down the street with a full size fake blue and white Christmas tree standing upright on the bike travelling at high speeds down the street - so as you can probably tell I have not avoided any Christmas crazyness, although they are not trying to sell you stuff you don't need under the guise of Christmas.
Later in the evening we boarded the train heading for our next destination, Sapa, up in the northern highlands, very tribal, hopefully with the promise of being very funky. The train journey was great, very comfortable, and our compartment was very glam! After many Baileys, we slept all night, waking at 5am, the train due to arrive at 5.30am. We were met and transported an hour to Sapa, and realised how freezing it was. Our hotel was freezing, there was no heating, and we couldn't check into our rooms til midday. They did however feed us a fantastic breakfast, albeit downed to the tunes of an annoying new "friend" from the land of the Union Jack - who incessently complained about the weather and anything else she could.
After breakfast we left with our guide Kee, a H'mong guy, lovely and friendly and who really liked Aussies. They were 4 French in tow and little miss annoying - but we soon got rid of her as we ventured into the valley towards Cat Cat village. The H'mong people are gorgeous and we soon had a mob around us - they are so tiny and wear bright gorgeous tribal gear, so a winner in my eyes. Our trip was about 6kms round trip, steep down and as you guessed it - steep up. At the top my new friend Sy, a H'mong womand and a few of her friends extorted some $$s out of me in exchange for some nice textiles and jewellery.
We arrived back at our hotel - had a freezing shower - if I don't come back with pneumonia it will be a miracle. A hot, lunch, some warm coffees and a few beers later, and we are all smiles - loving Sapa and the local people. In fact the Vietnamese as a whole are lovely, am enjoying it more than expected - the sights, the people, but particularly loving it here in Sapa!!

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Hello Hanoi

We arrived in Hanoi about 1pm Saturday afternoon after a few hard fought vinos on Malaysian Airlines, and too many hours at KL Int. Airport. Malaysian Airlines are a little stingy with their drinks, but the whole "service" provides entertainment in lieu of real in flight entertainment. For those interested the plane was a 737/800.
Arrival in Vietnam was easy, way too easy, and a little amusing. Marie and I had some duty free booze and we wanted to go throught the customs declaration line but there was no one attending to that line, so we asked the guy in the nothing to declare line what to do - he asked what we had - we said two bottles of booze - he said "oh alcohol - no problems" and waved us through - I was liking this place already. We quickly found our ride, and were off to town in a flash.
The surrounds reminded me a little of India, well any developing country. Plenty of scooters and bikes on the road - lots of helmets though that's unlike India, however not sure how much a jockeys helmet is going to save you. It was only 20 minutes into the 50 minute road trip to town that I heard some Christmas tunes on the radio. Our driver changed from a CD to radio - possibly to hear the news, then after that came George Micheal singing "Last Christmas", followed by some chick singing "Santa Baby", then "Rock around the Christams Tree" - Brenda Lee I think. I was crying with laughter, and Marie and I had a bit of a sing along too, much to the delight of our driver who thought we loved it. Another 5 minutes down the road I spied the first of the many Christmas decorations we would see all day. In fact our hotel is just around the corner from Christmas decorations street, where you can go to buy your Santa suit, and other Chrissy decs! I will not be spending much there me thinks.
We arrived at our hotel in the old quarter about 2pm, checked in, conducted all the necessary formalities, then showered before stepping out into the Hanoi streets.
I love Hanoi street life, a little like India, particularly in the tiny streets of the old quarter minus the color of the saris and salwars, and the absolute beauty of the Indians. Anyway mission one was to get prescription sunglasses - something that required more than a little patience. Unlike India English appears to not be widespread, and coupled with the fact that I'm an idiot and left my prescription in the hotel, which equalled interesting situations, a few potential eye examinations, much head shaking and finally a place that knew what I wanted. Suffice to say I think the people here are lovely, really gentle and pleasant.
After that was accomplished (wonder what I will end up with), we all strolled around the streets and checked out the street life which is really cool. A few beers, some delicious dinner, mine came with a hair but was still yummy, and we were set, though ready for bed. A night cap of Baileys (it's quite cold here) and I was asleep despite the horns and street noise. Can't wait for day two!!

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Hanoi bound

Gee airports are fun!!! More than a few hours to fill in today at KL International airport - where the big jet engines roar - oopps that was from Susan Reye's 70s song LA International Airport - brilliant song!! Anyway am bored, have shopped - bought some very nice sunnies, not eating though - so maybe a few sun salutes soon! Checked out the airport jungle - there was a cockroach the size of my fist - lovely. Knee is feeling good - playing cricket yesterday seems to have sorted it out - Go Tigers - we won (not that I had much impact though did take a nice catch if I do say so myself!!).
After entering the terminal at KL on my Christmas escaping adventure - we were confronted with "Jingle Bells" and over the hours heard many more lovely Christmas tunes. Marie, one of my travel companions dared me to untie the tinsel festooned around the balcony in the main arrivals terminal, but languishing in a Malaysian prison for being a grinch doesn't appeal.
Stay tuned for more over the next 15 days, some travel, Christmas, food and practice tales to tell I hope!

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Practice Post Sydney

Well practice post Sydney and Sharath has been a little up and down, though I am slowly figuring out things regarding my leg. Last week was relatively easy, and the warmth certainly made practising a joy, not to mention the inspiration of the preceding week with Sharath.

Saturday my knee was killing me and my ankle – well it was a cankle, (hard to tell where the calf stopped and the ankle began) – so had a light practice, and a swim in the bay and lounge on the beach afterwards. I then started to think about the swelling and patterns surrounding it – seems like every time I have a bit of wine it goes the puff. So maybe it’s time to experiment and minimise or eliminate the booze for a while. Certainly won’t hurt me, might improve me on many levels!!

Went to the golf (still with cankle and sore knee) on Sunday to see Tiger and of course the other boys playing – it was very inspiring – and focussed – definitely some parallels with yoga in some respects, though these guys are raking it in, and it is competition unlike the old Ashtanga practice. Though I’ve gained some inspiration from the man himself – Tiger – it is just like our late Guru said – “Practice, practice and all is coming” – he is testament to this, another golfer and his story has particularly caught my attention, given my road to recovery – James Nitties. The destiny of one is in their soul….and as he said it is important to remember there is always someone worse off than yourself. So true and again it has put everything into perspective for me. It has reinspired my practice, particularly my self practice which has been rocking this week, and made me focus on doing everything in my power to achieve full recovery.

This week a bit of a cold put practice on hold this Monday, blocked nose, sore throat, no need to spread it around. Tuesday was great and there were lots of people in the studio for a bit on momentum and energy. Wednesday it was moi – I practiced to Sharath’s led count on my iphone, and same same today, though half Mysore style, and from Bhujapidasana with Sharath. Leg feeling good, a bit sore but not swollen, and feeling very inspired – got a bit of a swing out of the golf! And tomorrow class – looking forward to it more than ever.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Coffee & Yoga


This morning concluded 6 wonderful days of practice under the guidance of Sharath. I again am so inspired and touched by the practice and continually feel humbled and blessed to be able to practice with Sharath, even though it was only a week. The energy of the whole room has been sensational, and this morning, the last practice was unbelievable. I had a great practice, I felt the strongest I have felt since having my knee op, and in my comeback to full practice. It was hard as always but I felt a lightness and ease again, and felt so focused - I loved it.

After a relatively big night out (in yoga terms) last night, I thought I would drag my ass through practice. Deb, Jenn and I went out for Mexican - ended up being a bit of a margarita crawl, particularly for Jenn. Deb and I had a few, but she had to teach, and I practice so we showed some restraint - something I often lack. It has been a big week, and I was amazed how tired I have felt all week, and have had many naps after practice and in the afternoons. Sleep has not been hard, despite the noise of the Cross.

Conference the other night at the new shala was fantastic. Sharath talked about asana, about bandhas, dristhi and breath. He was as always very enlightening and I always learn a lot. I really felt so blessed then and today to have him, the ashtanga practice, and the whole ashtanga community in my life. He is also such a funny guy. He told a story about doing a demo in NYC and a guy came to pick him up and he was drinking coffee and listening to Bollywood music - made me laugh - I could just picture our guru listening to some of the tunes I know! And today in practice he - as usual he was telling people to slow down - and he said - "why you hurry - are you hungry?" Of course everyone laughed!

Today after practice there was a breakfast outside in front of the yachts and water on the terrace - it was great having coconut juice - just like Mysore, chai, muffins and a bit of a chat though I really didn't know anyone. I went to say goodbye and have a photo as well, and he asked me how my knee was and how it felt through practice. I am always amazed how he remembers things when he has sooooooooo many students - he is a sensation - a true guru, an inspiration.

And just as I was leaving, a guy showed up with some take away coffees from the cafe in the park, one was for Sharath. Sharath thanked him, asked for some sugar, and a girl made a comment about coffee - and Sharath again - he cracks me up - said "No coffee - no prana!" Love it - love him!!

Thursday, November 5, 2009

Halfway Point

Yeah - made it through practice today despite having quite a swollen ankle, and sore knee. As previously it was great - I am really enjoying the energy, led practice and Sharath's unique style. 3 more to go and conference tomorrow night!

Ate great Indian last night, out for dinner again tonight - so social but bed early for practice tomorrow!

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Sharath in Sydney Day 1 & 2

Leaving Melbourne on Monday afternoon, I was feeling a little unsure of my ability to get through practice, not to mention even get to Sydney. My knee was very sore and unstable, and Tiger cancelled the flight I was due to board. Nevertheless I finally made it to Sydney arriving around 9.30pm - which was great given I had to be up at 4.30am the following morning. Anyway fortunately my cab driver, who was from Gujarat - was on to it and I was in the Cross just after 10pm, greeted ever so warmly by Deb and her flatmate Jen. After a quick cuppa and a chat it was off to bed to toss and turn and listen to the sounds of the Cross for most of the evening.

Day 1
After a few little naps here and there I arose at 4.30am showered, had a cup of tea with Deb and headed of to Rushcutters Bay for my first practice with Sharath. Jumping out of the car I was greeted by Victoria - my teacher, and we headed in to register (a non-event) and placed our mats, and had a bit of a chat before class. I was feeling OK - though a bit nervous given I had no idea if the knee would survive - or in fact I would given I was a little unpracticed since my arthroscope! I was however excited and was firing on all fronts when I saw Sharath enter the room. I always love the opening prayer with him - actually chanting in general, but loved every minute of it in anticipation of the practice. Then Ekam, inhale.............and we were off - and I was feeling great. I have learnt so much about myself and my body through this practice, and never so much as in the past few months since having the knee op. I was sensible remembering that this practice would make or break me for the remainder of the week. In fact I did everything, bar any half-lotus poses with left knee - where I just modified. Backbends were absolute murder but just as I don't have the strength in my legs I once had - so the arms took the brunt. Still burning from then, they ached in Sirsasana - headstand, but I followed and worked with my breathe and bandhas and it all worked out!! It was great, it was exhilarating, it was just fantastic - he is so inspiring - our guru Sharath - bless him, bless the practice, bless Guruji - Sri K Pattabhi Jois. How lucky I am to have this practice in my life! Ashtanga rocks!

PS. I will not drink tea before practice as I was busting to go to the loo from about Uthita Hasta Padangustasana - and it was murder! Also had a bit of nausea, felt a little scratchy in the throat, but fixed that courtesy of Deb and some Chinese herbs! Also had a word with Sharath about my knee - so all is cool.

Day 2
Pulled up fine - ankle a little swollen but knee ok. Arms a little fatigued but still felt great. Amazing how great food and lots of sleep help. Dinner last night was gorgeous Vietnamese from the Cross/Darlinghurst, followed by ice-cream that I would consider moving to Sydney for. Protein protein to get my through and help my muscles, and a little sugar for love.
Anyway back to practice - all was great - am amazed lately how much I love and appreciate this gift of Ashtanga yoga. I feel so lucky and blessed to have it in my life even when my arms are burning, or my leg feels heavy and is aching, or my lungs feel they could explode - it is so powerful and beautiful. Such gratitude to Sri K Pattabhi Jois for giving us this practice, to Sharath for carrying on the lineage, and all of my teachers, but particularly Victoria for getting me to this point, on the mat in Sydney with Sharath after a few months of doubt and difficult fractured practice.
It was great today - same same but again inspiring. My practice isn't what it was - both before, or directly after my op - but it is there and it is great - it is what it is and nothing more. Best of all I love it!
Breakfast awaits - I must eat!

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Off to Sydney

The time has come - I'm off to Sydney tomorrow for a week of Sharath's led classes. My knee is again feeling really bad - I had a good week last week, overdid it somewhat last weekend, and have been suffering ever since. I did however, in preparation for the coming week, manage to do a full week of practice - actually 7 practices in a row, and also jumping back both sides - first time since the operation. However lots of poses are still modified but what can I do - I don't have the full range of motion back. I will do what I can do. I was happy, if not surprised to get my touch in Supta Kurmasana this week - my aim over summer is the full bind - but as you know "to touch is to bind!!" More from Sydney.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

45 and not out!

Made it and am feeling good - I actually have plenty of moments where I feel in my youth - though those I can tell you are not physically yoga related! Nevertheless I am confident I will be back on the mat next week - I could push it this week but feel a few more days will give my knee time to consolidate! See I did learn something from last week's disaster!!

Had a dream I was doing supta kurmasana the other night (not something physically possible with my left leg at the moment). Anyway just as I was shifting my foot behind my head I woke up with an almighty cramp - so maybe that was a little alarm to be mindful of as I venture back on to the mat!

Thursday, September 10, 2009

Patience (not really even sure how you spell it and I am such a spelling stickler)

It was funny - when I was in Mysore, the first conference I attended Sharath talked about patience - to do yoga you need it. Having never been a particularly patient person (ever) I felt he was talking to ME! Well now all those words come back as I learn how to walk - and slowly, and do no practice, physical exercise - nada!! I'm 45 this weekend and this experience has made me value what's left of my youth (if any), and to be kinder to my body. And to cultivate patience - I am so an all or nothing person!